Route: Big Sandy Trailhead → Big Sandy Lake → Jackass Pass → Cirque of the Towers → Lonesome Lake → Texas Pass → Elkhart Park Trailhead
Distance: 62 miles
Days: 6
Permit: None required (self-registration at trailhead)
Base Weight: 9.8 lbs
Season: Late July
The Wind River Range is Wyoming’s best-kept secret — a 100-mile granite spine running through the center of the state, entirely roadless, virtually unpermitted, and home to the highest concentration of lakes above 10,000 feet in the United States. The Cirque of the Towers, a horseshoe of granite spires rising above Lonesome Lake, is the crown of the Winds. Getting there requires real commitment — the nearest trailhead is 3+ hours from Jackson. That’s exactly why it’s worth going.
Getting There
Big Sandy Lodge is the southern access point — a 70-mile dirt road from Pinedale that takes over an hour. The road is passable in most vehicles in summer but has washboard sections that will rattle fillings loose. Plan extra time.
The northern exit at Elkhart Park is more straightforward — 30 miles from Fremont Lake, mostly paved. The point-to-point route requires a shuttle, which we arranged by leaving a vehicle at each end.
Day 1: Big Sandy Trailhead to Big Sandy Lake — 7 miles
The approach from Big Sandy is deceptively gentle — a gradual gain through open lodgepole forest that gives no hint of what’s coming. Big Sandy Lake at 9,650 feet is the staging area for the cirque approach. A dozen tents scattered around the lake; we found a flat granite bench 200 yards from everyone else.
Conditions: Perfect. Mid-70s at the trailhead, mid-60s at the lake. No clouds. Afternoon wind off the snowfields to the north.
Wildlife: Moose in the willows at the lake inlet. Two separate sightings. The Winds have a dense moose population in the lower drainages.
Day 2: Big Sandy Lake Over Jackass Pass — 8 miles
Jackass Pass (10,800ft) is the gateway to the cirque — a steep boulder scramble with exposure that earns the elevation. The trail is well-cairned but requires attention. Heavy packs make the final 400 feet genuinely difficult.
The view from the pass is one of the great moments in backcountry travel. The Cirque of the Towers opens below you — Pingora, Warrior, Shark’s Nose, Warbonnet, and the Watchtower arranged in a perfect granite horseshoe above Lonesome Lake. Nothing prepares you for the scale of it.
Made camp at Lonesome Lake. The lake sits at 10,174 feet and is surrounded by talus and the granite spires above. Camping is established and well-worn — this is a popular destination.
Camp notes: Cold. Temperature dropped to 28°F overnight. Frost on the tent by morning. Late July at elevation in Wyoming is not summer camping.
Day 3: Rest Day at the Cirque
A full day at Lonesome Lake to explore, climb if inclined, and absorb the setting. The Cirque is a rock climbers’ destination — established routes on Pingora, Warrior, and the Watchtower range from 5.7 to 5.12. We scrambled to the base of Pingora’s southeast face and watched a team work the Northeast Ridge (5.8) in perfect morning light.
The afternoon thunderstorm pattern held — clear until noon, clouds building by 1pm, thunder by 3pm, clear by sunset. Classic Wyoming summer pattern. Plan high-elevation activities for morning.
Day 4: Cirque to Deep Lake via Texas Pass — 11 miles
Texas Pass (11,596ft) is the high point of the route — a genuine mountain pass with a Class 2 boulder scramble on the east side that requires careful routefinding. In late July the upper couloir holds consolidated snow; microspikes were useful for 20 minutes.
The descent into the Fremont-Elkhart drainage is long and steep, dropping 2,500 feet through talus and then forest to the Fremont Lake drainage. Deep Lake at 10,600 feet is a perfect camp — more remote than Lonesome, less visited, equally beautiful.
Camp notes: Quieter than Lonesome. Three other groups visible from camp, all distant. This is the tradeoff for the extra miles and pass — you earn the solitude.
Day 5: Deep Lake to Island Lake — 12 miles
The longest day, following the Highline Trail north through the Fremont-Elkhart drainages. This section of the Winds is lake country — dozens of lakes above 10,000 feet, many unnamed, all cold and clear. The fishing is reportedly excellent; we don’t fish but watched others pull cutthroat from Island Lake all afternoon.
Island Lake has a designated camping area that sees heavy use — it’s on the Highline Trail and accessible from Elkhart Park in a long day hike, which brings a different crowd. Less solitude but extraordinary setting.
Day 6: Island Lake to Elkhart Park — 12 miles
The exit. 12 miles of gradually descending trail through mixed forest back to the Elkhart Park trailhead at 9,100 feet. Straightforward and fast — we were at the trailhead by noon.
The Winds vs. Other Ranges
Having spent time in the Sierra Nevada, Colorado Rockies, and Cascades, the Wind Rivers are genuinely different. The combination of scale (you can go days without seeing a road), low permit pressure, and granite quality makes them unique in the lower 48. The tradeoff is accessibility — this isn’t a weekend trip from anywhere without a serious drive.
Logistics
Permits: None required for most Winds access. Popo Agie Wilderness has a trailhead quota system — check current regulations.
Bears: Black bears present but not aggressive. We used an Ursack — it’s sufficient and lighter than a canister for this area. Check current regulations.
Water: Abundant everywhere. We filtered from lakes and streams the entire route without looking for water.
Fishing: Wyoming fishing license required. The Winds offer some of the best cutthroat fishing in the US.
Best timing: Late July through mid-August. Snow clears the passes by mid-July most years; mosquitoes improve significantly after August 1.